Roma
After settling into Hotel Aberdeen not far from the Piazza de Repubblica and the Baths of Diocletian, we regathered for our first taste of the Metro, emerging from the Spagna station to a view of the Spanish Steps bathed in golden late afternoon light. Evening came on as we made our way to the Trevi Fountain – a coin-tossing photo-op – and the vast, impressive Pantheon. After another stop by the fountains in the Piazza Navona, we arrived at Ristorante La Zagara for another delicious group dinner. Well sated, our trek took us across the Tiber to Castel Sant’Angelo ablaze with light against the night sky, the Dome of St. Peter’s illuminated nearby. From there it was an express bus ride back to our hotel neighborhood and a well-deserved rest after a full and varied day.
Friday, our first full day in Rome, was devoted to the Vatican. Clear blue skies and cool temperatures greeted us as we entered the vast Square of St. Peter’s surrounded by Bernini’s Colonnade. It felt as if we had the piazza to ourselves at that hour as we passed through security to enter the basilica itself. The scale of the structure – like the piazza – was hard to grasp. We viewed Michelangelo’s Pieta, the new tomb of John Paul II, Bernini’s canopy over the papal altar, and mosaic reproductions of famous painting throughout the building, like Raphael’s Transfiguration, which were hard to distinguish from the originals.
After walking to the entrance of the Vatican Museum, it took nearly an hour (including a short break) to line-up, enter, pass through security, distribute the “whisper system,” and elbow through crowds before we even began to view the art! Again, I wondered what the summer must be like. As with other art museums we’ve visited on this trip, I felt as if we barely scratched the surface of the Vatican. I was interested in how the discovery of ancient sculpture – like the Laocoön and the Belvedere Torso – inspired renaissance artists to a more realistic and robust style of depicting the human form. Passing through the Raphael Rooms, we finally arrived at the Sistine Chapel filled with people craning their necks and attendants insisting on silence and “no photo” but to no avail.
We had contemplated climbing the dome, as we had in Florence, but we headed back to the hotel, after lunch in the self-service café, getting a bit lost in the process before finding the Ottaviano Metro stop. On the way we purchased train tickets at the Termini station for our excursion to Naples and Pompeii after the formal tour was over. That evening we joined Jay for a walk to a recommended gelateria (Gioletti’s), first enjoying dinner at an outdoor restaurant nearby.
Saturday, the tour’s last full day, began near the ancient heart of Rome, where local guide Elaria, took us through the Basilica of San Clemente, including the remnants of the 4th century church under the 12th century structure, and beneath that the ancient Roman street, apartment block and Temple of Mithras. Descending through each layer was like time-travel. The Colosseum (actual the Amphitheater of Flavius) was named for the colossal statue of Nero that once stood nearby. Another structure hard to fully grasp from photographs, the Colosseum was built by Jewish slaves fresh from the destruction of Jerusalem (hence the Menorah depicted on the Arch of Titus). Understandably, this and the adjacent Arch of Constantine and Forum remain a huge draw for visitors.
We had contemplated climbing the dome, as we had in Florence, but we headed back to the hotel, after lunch in the self-service café, getting a bit lost in the process before finding the Ottaviano Metro stop. On the way we purchased train tickets at the Termini station for our excursion to Naples and Pompeii after the formal tour was over. That evening we joined Jay for a walk to a recommended gelateria (Gioletti’s), first enjoying dinner at an outdoor restaurant nearby.
Saturday, the tour’s last full day, began near the ancient heart of Rome, where local guide Elaria, took us through the Basilica of San Clemente, including the remnants of the 4th century church under the 12th century structure, and beneath that the ancient Roman street, apartment block and Temple of Mithras. Descending through each layer was like time-travel. The Colosseum (actual the Amphitheater of Flavius) was named for the colossal statue of Nero that once stood nearby. Another structure hard to fully grasp from photographs, the Colosseum was built by Jewish slaves fresh from the destruction of Jerusalem (hence the Menorah depicted on the Arch of Titus). Understandably, this and the adjacent Arch of Constantine and Forum remain a huge draw for visitors.
Click below to see full-size
Earlier in the week, Alfio responded to a request to visit the Borghese Gallery by making a reservation for those who were interested and arrangements for taxis to take us there after the Forum tour ended. While waiting for our timed entrance, the group ate lunch in the museum café. Allowed only two hours to see the sprawling collection of sculpture and painting, Chris and I rented audio-guides to make the best use of our time. Bernini’s David, Apollo and Daphne, and several Caravaggio paintings topped my list of favorite pieces. Afterwards, the group walked back to the hotel together. We had been on our feet for nine hours by the time we got there!
That evening, our farewell dinner was held at a restaurant built into the old Roman wall a short walk from the hotel. Besides a fine meal and free-flowing wine, the evening included music by a musician Alfio had hired, as well as singing and dancing (at least by some). It was difficult knowing if Alfio or the rest of us had the better time!
By Sunday morning, many of the group had already left for home. The rest of us had a leisurely breakfast before heading out to our own sightseeing destinations. My first stop was St. Paul’s Within-the-Walls, the Episcopal Church in Rome, where I was surprised to find the Archbishop of Canterbury presiding and preaching (he was in town to visit the pope).
Taking bus H to the Piazza Belli across the Tiber, Chris and I used Rick’s Trastevere audio-tour of “medieval village Rome,” after a quick lunch at a neighborhood pizzeria. After wandering through narrow streets filled with families enjoying a fine spring Sunday afternoon, we ended up at Santa Maria in Trastevere, situated on a family-friendly square, where meals were being served to the homeless. We walked back across the Tiber to view the Piazza del Campidoglio designed by Michelangelo and took the “shortcut” to the “Rome from the Sky” elevator for a 360° vista from atop the Victor Emmanuel Monument. We walked all the way back to the hotel along the Via Nazionale after admiring Trajan’s Column.
We met up with our “buddies” for dinner since Yael and Mary had extended their stay in Rome as we had. In addition to arranging a taxi to the airport early on Tuesday morning, the man at the front desk of the hotel suggested La Pentolaccia a few blocks away where we had a pleasant meal together.
By Sunday morning, many of the group had already left for home. The rest of us had a leisurely breakfast before heading out to our own sightseeing destinations. My first stop was St. Paul’s Within-the-Walls, the Episcopal Church in Rome, where I was surprised to find the Archbishop of Canterbury presiding and preaching (he was in town to visit the pope).
Taking bus H to the Piazza Belli across the Tiber, Chris and I used Rick’s Trastevere audio-tour of “medieval village Rome,” after a quick lunch at a neighborhood pizzeria. After wandering through narrow streets filled with families enjoying a fine spring Sunday afternoon, we ended up at Santa Maria in Trastevere, situated on a family-friendly square, where meals were being served to the homeless. We walked back across the Tiber to view the Piazza del Campidoglio designed by Michelangelo and took the “shortcut” to the “Rome from the Sky” elevator for a 360° vista from atop the Victor Emmanuel Monument. We walked all the way back to the hotel along the Via Nazionale after admiring Trajan’s Column.
We met up with our “buddies” for dinner since Yael and Mary had extended their stay in Rome as we had. In addition to arranging a taxi to the airport early on Tuesday morning, the man at the front desk of the hotel suggested La Pentolaccia a few blocks away where we had a pleasant meal together.